Latino Arts for Humanity

Pan de Muerto: a special bread
Suzanne Guerra/From the Times-Standard
Posted: 10/28/2009 01:27:12 AM PDT

November brings the annual celebration of El Dia de Los Muertos (the Day of the Dead), a fusion of indigenous and European traditions in Mexico that is celebrated in other countries as the Catholic religious holidays of All Saints Day and All Souls Day.

The observance was re-established in the United States by Mexican immigrants who arrived during the Mexican Revolution, when the political art of Jose Guadalupe Posada became the most popular image of the event. It has retained political significance for many communities, where it may be expressed through cultural events as well as family gatherings.

The altares (altars) are a space set aside to celebrate the life of a loved one, and need not be large or elaborate. Ofrendas (offerings) on the altar include favorite foods, along with favorite photos and mementos. Families make an effort to provide special treats and often exchange special foods with visiting friends and neighbors. Indigenous celebrations lasted one month and traditional altars still incorporate the four elements: earth, air, fire and water.

Air moves the “papel picado,” brightly colored tissue papers with cut-out designs that cover the altar. Whether handmade or purchased, they typically include colors such as purple to express pain or grief, white for hope and pink or orange for the celebration of life.

Fire is the purifying element, and from Christianity come candles which are placed all over the altar to signify

faith and hope. On the top level of the altar, four candles are found at the cardinal points to illuminate the way for the dead, whose spirits are said to visit the living at this time of year.
Water is the fountain of life. A towel, soap and small bowl of water are put on the altar so that the returning spirits can freshen up after their long trip. There is fresh water to quench their thirst and a bottle of beer or tequila, atole or chocolate, to remember the good times.

Bread is the gift from the Earth, the food of life. The traditional Day of the Dead bread, Pan de Muerto, is a plain, round sweet bread sprinkled with sugar and a crisscrossed bone shape placed on top, or made in the shape of a person. Most families include a loved one's favorite foods or other treats on the altar. Visiting spirits consume the essence, and foods are traditionally shared with family, friends and visitors.

You can find Pan de Muerto and many varieties of Pan Dulce (Mexican sweet bread) at Mexican grocery stores and specialty bakeries such as Los Bagels.

Accompany Pan de Muerto and Pan Dulce with Mexican chocolate, made with spices and ground almonds, or café con canela -- coffee with cinnamon.

Here is a simple recipe for Pan de Muerto, which is also suitable for classroom use. You may also create smaller rolls to decorate with “bones” or make some golletes -- a small, doughnut-shaped bread glazed with pink-colored sugar, which symbolizes the cycle of life and death.

Set aside some dough to create decorations, or simply glaze after baking. When done, the bread will be lightly brown and sound hollow when tapped.

Dough may also be prepared ahead of time for baking later.


Pan de Muerto (Bread of the Dead)

For the bread:

-- 1/4-ounce packet active, dry yeast

-- 1 teaspoon sugar

-- 1/4 cup warm water

-- 1/4 cup milk

-- 2 teaspoons anise seeds

-- 1/4 cup butter, cut into pieces

-- 1/4 cup granulated sugar

-- 1/2 teaspoon orange extract (optional)

-- 2 tablespoons orange zest (grated orange peel)

-- 1/2 teaspoon salt

-- 2 eggs, room temperature

-- 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

For the glaze:

-- 1/4 cup sugar

-- Juice of 1/2 fresh orange

-- Colored sugar crystals for decoration

In a large mixing bowl, dissolve yeast and sugar in 1/4 cup warm water. Allow yeast to proof for 5 minutes (yeast will form a bubbly layer on top).

Meanwhile, scald milk and anise seeds in a small pan over medium-high heat. Add butter, 1/4 cup sugar, orange extract, zest and salt. Cook, stirring until butter melts, then remove from heat. Cool until lukewarm.

Beat eggs into yeast mixture. Add scalded milk mixture. Whisk until blended. Gradually stir in flour with a wooden spoon to make dough. Turn dough out onto a well-floured surface. Knead for 5 minutes, until it is smooth and pliable. Return dough to mixing bowl. Cover and set bowl in a warm place. Allow dough to rise until it doubles in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 F. Punch air out of dough and knead it again for a couple of minutes.

Pinch off about 1/2 cup of dough to form decorations. Form remaining dough into a round loaf on a cookie sheet. Arrange shapes on top of loaf.

Allow dough to rise again for 1 hour, then bake for approximately 35 minutes. (Reduce baking time for rolls.)

To prepare the glaze, combine sugar and orange juice in a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil and, stirring, reduce until mixture lightly thickens into a syrup.

Brush orange syrup over warm bread. Decorate with colored sugar crystals.

Makes 1 loaf or about 2 dozen small rolls.



Suzanne Guerra is a member of the Humboldt Communidad -- Dia de los Muertos Committee.